Farewell gift for Nina; more signatures to come & yellow tape not yet removed (spray painted stencil)
(multiple stencils) I cut these on thinner-stock paper than I normally would b/c they’re going to be used by my mom to print on wine glasses for her wedding. They’re all quite small, too, and I placed them over a big piece of paper with blue marker scribbled on it for visibility’s sake.
An old stencil concept finally realized over the weekend, and I think I’m going to hand paint a sort of bastardized poem cobbled from quixotic/maniacal Tyson quotes in the empty space. All it’s going to take is a few people to dare me to spray this one in public and my goose is cooked.
I’ve gotten a few requests in the past for help with making stencil art, and I made time to write up a tutorial. Simon, this is for you in particular, buddy. You better make something. 
CRASH COURSE STENCIL DESIGNING:
1. Choose your image.
2. Hand sketch it or photocopy it or do whatever it takes to create an accurately sized image, one that will fit on your predetermined canvas (or t-shirt, in your case). ***Note: when spraying stencils, especially for a beginner, you want to work with as few layers as possible. So you really want to simplify your image. I suggest using the “Posterize” filter in software like Adobe Photoshop (if you have that), to reduce the number of layers of detail and color. Better yet, the “Cut Out” Artistic filter. This is what often looks like a two-tone, shadowed graphic style that you often see in stencil art. Think of those Obama posters, too…
3. If you are working with more than one layer, you will need an equal number of equally sized images replicated, so that you can cut each layer according to the color you will be spraying thru it.
4. Taping (or directly drawing) your image on a thin (almost spongy; not too hard) sheet of what is called “museum board” in art stores makes for the most flat and durable stencil. This type of board is the easiest to cut and the least likely to rip or deteriorate quickly. It isn’t cheap, however… close to $10 per (big) sheet.
5. Use a sharp X-acto blade and a self-healing pad to cut your stencil(s). Keep masking (or any) tape handy in case you cut too far or accidentally sever important bridges.
6. I normally never spray “Proofs” because its kindof my thing to appreciate the flaws and excitement of the very first spray, but it’s smart for artists to spray a “proof” so you can make sure you’ve designed/cut your stencil perfectly before committing to that final piece.
7. Spray outdoors or in a highly ventilated location. Paint fumes are highly toxic and if you can smell them, they are eating away at your brain cells. You need a mask with uncorrupted filters. (Always seal these filters to extend lifespan… usually only good for 36hrs of exposure to air.) You should also wear goggles and latex gloves (best for unrestricted manipulation) because paint poisons can be absorbed as mist thru your eyes and thru your skin.
8. If you are spraying onto a T-shirt, you really need high quality paint. The actual recommended way to do this is with an airbrush and fabric paint (highly expensive and very annoying to clean the airbrush gun). I have that equipment but stopped using it because it’s such a process. But to avoid the airbrush, you want a high quality spraypaint (like Belton Molotow or Montana brands). Krylon is really a crumby, generic option and def avoid Rustoleum like the plague. They are going to create a really crusty effect on a cotton t-shirt material and they just aren’t pretty. The better paint is only slightly more costly (like $8 or $9 a can as opposed to $6 or $7). Huge difference.
9. Also if spraying onto a t-shirt, you need to stretch that bugger to a nice flat (not over-stretched), unrumpled point, so that your design isn’t compromised. Use some flat cardboard or something inside of the shirt which will also prevent the paint from bleeding thru to the back of the T. Lay down some newspaper or at least find a surface (workbench?) that won’t mind getting hit by the paint.
10. Spray in a quick, even mist. Practice before committing to your actual piece. Almost like you are smoothly waving a magic wand, about 10 inches away from the piece.
11. Make sure your paint is dry before touching or moving or replacing any layers. It’s a massive shag when you get trigger happy and end up screwing up your art. You can use a hair dryer to speed up the process, but don’t hold it too close to the piece or the paint will ripple and get distorted.
12. Let the piece sit outside and the smell dissipate for hours (or days). Again, if you can smell the paint, it’s bad for brain cells. Leave it in a garage or out on your porch or your fire escape for a while. And obviously make sure to wash any t-shirt before wearing it.
13. If you do spray on wood or some other type of canvas, I recommend a layer of polyurethane or some sealant to protect the paint and the wood. I doubt you’ll work too hard on your canvas, but I normally find orphaned wood in the street and hand sand it all over to smooth the edges and splinters and stuff… basically i reshape the entire piece of wood so that it looks softer… buffing off layers of paint and revealing the veins and grains of whatever natural wood lies underneath… so the wood becomes a part of the art… and it’s important to protect that, too.
14. Be sure to leave your stencils (now that they’re covered in paint) outdoors to dry, as well. They have bad, stinky fumes, too.
15. Behold your unique, impressive art. You now have a stencil with which you can replicate it.
If you read this all the way thru and have the cojones to actually give the process a whirl, then I salute you. Send me a photo of what you create. I’d love to see it.
